Painting stucco and brick: what to know first

Brick that has never been painted usually needs little maintenance beyond the occasional mortar repair. Once it is painted, it will need repainting from time to time, and removing paint from brick is slow, messy and can damage the face of the brick. If the brick is in good condition and you mainly want a colour change, it is worth weighing that commitment first.

There are good reasons to paint, though: covering old patches and mismatched repairs, updating a dated colour, or unifying a house that mixes several masonry types. Already-painted brick and stucco are a simpler decision, since the commitment has been made and the question is how to repaint well.

Stucco is more often painted than brick, and painting is a normal part of its upkeep. As with brick, the key is using a coating that suits the material and dealing with cracks and moisture first.

Brick, mortar and stucco absorb and release water. A coating that traps moisture inside the wall can lead to peeling, bubbling, and in freezing weather, damage to the masonry itself as trapped water freezes and expands. That is why masonry coatings are chosen for their ability to let water vapour escape while shedding liquid water.

Before painting, look for the source of any dampness: blocked gutters, downspouts that empty against the wall, soil or garden beds piled against the foundation, or failed caulk around windows. White, powdery deposits on brick, called efflorescence, are a sign that water is moving through the wall and leaving salts behind. They should be cleaned off and the moisture source addressed before painting, or they will push the new coating off.

Hairline cracks in stucco are common and can usually be filled with a suitable patching compound or bridged by the coating. Wider cracks, loose or hollow-sounding stucco and crumbling mortar joints are repairs that should be done properly before any paint goes on, because paint will not hold failing material together.

Repairs need time to cure before they are painted, and patches often absorb paint differently from the surrounding wall, which is one reason a primer or an extra coat is sometimes needed for an even finish. The extent of repairs is part of the assessment and is discussed and priced separately from the painting itself.

Masonry colours look different on a large textured wall than on a small, smooth sample card. Texture creates shadows that make a colour read darker, and a large area makes it look more intense. Testing a generous patch on the wall itself, and looking at it in morning and afternoon light, gives a much truer picture.

Think about the parts of the house that are not being painted, such as the roof, windows, stone details and the neighbouring houses. Colours that work with these fixed elements usually look more natural. Very dark colours on masonry absorb more heat in summer sun, so they are worth discussing with your painter if the wall faces south or west.

Painted masonry needs periodic attention: washing off dirt, checking for cracks and peeling after winter, and repainting when the coating wears. Keeping gutters clear and water directed away from the walls is the single most helpful thing you can do to keep the coating in good condition.

If you like the look of colour but not the commitment of paint, there are alternatives such as masonry stains and limewash-style finishes, which soak into the surface rather than forming a film. They behave differently, wear differently and are not right for every wall, so they are worth discussing during the assessment.